Azerbaijan · Trackside classic

Göy qutab

Thin flatbreads filled with herbs

Paper thin half moons of dough packed with spinach and fresh herbs, cooked on a hot dry pan, brushed with butter and dusted with tangy sumac.

Göy qutab

Qutab are Azerbaijan's favorite fast food: a soft dough rolled almost transparent, folded around a filling, and cooked in a minute on a saj, a domed iron griddle. They come filled with ground meat, pumpkin or cheese, but the green version, göy qutab, packed with spinach, cilantro, dill and spring onion, is the one sold by the stack at Baku's bakeries and street stalls. They are brushed with butter while hot and sprinkled with sumac, and eaten folded in the hand with a glass of tea or a spoon of yogurt.

For a race weekend in a city of narrow old streets, a stack of qutab in a paper bag is the perfect walking food between the Old City and the grandstands. A heavy skillet does the work of a saj at home.

The dough

Ingredients

Method

  1. Mix the flour and salt in the bowl. Add the egg, water and oil and mix with a fork, then knead with your hands for 8 minutes until smooth. Add a tablespoon more water if it is dry and crumbly.
  2. Divide into 12 balls, cover them with the towel and rest for 30 minutes.

The green filling

Ingredients

Method

  1. Melt the butter in the large skillet over medium heat. Add the spring onions and cook for 2 minutes. Add the spinach and stir for 2 to 3 minutes until it collapses. Take the pan off the heat and stir in the cilantro, dill, parsley, salt, pepper and sumac.
  2. Tip the filling into a sieve, press out any liquid with the back of a spoon, and let it cool for 15 minutes.

Shaping and cooking

Ingredients

Method

  1. On a floured surface, roll a dough ball into a round about 8 inches (20 cm) across and as thin as you can, about 1/16 inch (1.5 mm). Lay the plate on top and trim around it with a knife to make a neat circle; save the trimmings for rerolling.
  2. Spread 2 heaped tablespoons of filling in a thin layer over one half of the round, leaving a 1/2 inch (1 cm) border. Fold the other half over and press the edges firmly together with your fingertips to seal, pressing out any air.
  3. Heat the dry heavy skillet over medium high heat for 3 minutes. Cook the qutab one or two at a time for 1 to 1 1/2 minutes per side.
  4. As each qutab comes out of the pan, brush it generously with melted butter, sprinkle with sumac and stack them on a plate under the towel.

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