Austria · Signature dish

Wiener Zwiebelrostbraten

Viennese rib steak under a heap of crisp onions

Thin slices of well marbled beef seared in hot butter, crowned with a tangle of crisp fried onions and moistened with a short, buttery pan gravy, alongside golden fried potatoes and a sharp pickle.

Wiener Zwiebelrostbraten

The Viennese have a special affection for dishes that sound modest and arrive looking magnificent. Zwiebelrostbraten is beef from the upper rib, cut thin, floured on one side and seared fast in hot fat, then buried under a mound of onion rings fried until they shatter. The pan is deglazed with stock and finished with a knob of butter, and that short, glossy gravy runs beneath the onions so they stay crisp on top and soak it up below. It is listed in Austria's register of traditional foods, and Viennese cooks like to say that you can judge a traditional restaurant by how it treats this dish.

Its partners are just as fixed: fried potatoes, a fanned pickled gherkin and a dab of sharp mustard. Southwest Germany has its own beloved version served with spätzle, but in Vienna the potatoes are not negotiable.

The cooking is quick and the timing is everything, which makes it a fine dish for anyone who enjoys a tightly run pit stop. The onions and potatoes can be done ahead and kept warm; the steaks need four minutes at the very end.

The fried potatoes

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The crisp onions

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The steaks and pan gravy

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