Austria's most famous dish is, by law, made of veal; anything else must admit to being a schnitzel in the Viennese style. It is pounded so thin it covers the plate, dipped in flour, egg and fine breadcrumbs, and fried in a generous depth of clarified butter while the cook rocks the pan so the coating puffs up and ripples away from the meat like a soufflé. Viennese chefs judge a schnitzel by whether that coat is wavy, golden and dry enough to slide a fork beneath.

Its natural partner is Erdäpfelsalat, a potato salad with no mayonnaise at all: warm waxy potatoes dressed in broth, vinegar, oil and onion until glossy. Together they make the most Austrian lunch there is, and a fine way to spend the hour before lights out at Spielberg.

Viennese potato salad

Ingredients

• 1 3/4 lb (800 g) small waxy potatoes
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 3/4 cup (180 ml) beef broth
• 3 tablespoons (45 ml) white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1 teaspoon Dijon or mild yellow mustard
• 3/4 teaspoon fine salt
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
• 1 small yellow onion
• 3 tablespoons (45 ml) sunflower or canola oil
• 2 tablespoons fresh chives

Method

1. Put the potatoes in the large saucepan, cover with cold water by 1 inch (2.5 cm), add the tablespoon of salt and bring to a boil. Simmer for 15 to 20 minutes.
2. While the potatoes cook, put the broth, vinegar, sugar, mustard, salt and pepper in the small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Stir in the chopped onion and take it off the heat.
3. Drain the potatoes. As soon as you can handle them, holding each one in a towel, peel off the skins with a small knife and slice into rounds about 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick, straight into the large bowl.
4. Pour the hot dressing over the potatoes and fold gently with a spatula. Add the oil and fold again. Cover and leave at room temperature for at least 30 minutes, folding once or twice.
5. Taste and add salt or a splash of vinegar if needed. Fold in most of the chives, keeping some for the top.

The schnitzels

Ingredients

• 4 veal cutlets
• 1 teaspoon fine salt
• 1/4 teaspoon white or black pepper
• 1/2 cup (60 g) all purpose flour
• 2 large eggs
• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) milk or heavy cream
• 2 cups (120 g) fine dry breadcrumbs
• 1 1/2 cups (360 ml) clarified butter
• 1 lemon
• 4 sprigs flat leaf parsley

Method

1. Lay a cutlet between two sheets of plastic wrap or inside the freezer bag. Pound it with the flat side of the mallet, working from the center outward with firm, even taps, until it is about 1/8 inch (3 to 4 mm) thick. Do not hammer it so hard it tears. Repeat with the rest. Cut small slits into any edge of fat or sinew so the meat does not curl.
2. Pat the meat dry with paper towels and season both sides with the salt and pepper.
3. Put the flour in the first dish. In the second, beat the eggs with the milk using a fork just until combined; do not whisk until foamy. Put the breadcrumbs in the third.
4. Heat the clarified butter in the large skillet over medium high heat to 340°F (170°C). It should be at least 3/4 inch (2 cm) deep so the schnitzel can float.
5. Dip a cutlet in the flour and shake off the excess. Draw it through the egg on both sides and let the excess drip off. Lay it in the crumbs and scoop crumbs over the top, then turn it over once. Do not press the crumbs on: a loose coat is what puffs up.
6. Lay the schnitzel in the hot fat, away from you. Immediately start gently tilting the pan back and forth so the hot fat washes over the top. Fry for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, until golden underneath, then turn it with the spatula and fry the second side for 1 1/2 minutes, still rocking. Cook one or two at a time; do not crowd the pan.
7. Lift onto the paper lined rack and blot the top lightly. Keep warm in a 200°F (95°C) oven while you fry the rest, letting the fat return to 340°F (170°C) between batches.

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