Austria · Sweet finish

Kaiserschmarrn

Torn caramelized pancake with plum compote

A thick, fluffy pancake torn into ragged pieces, caramelized in butter and sugar, snowed with powdered sugar and served with warm spiced plums.

Kaiserschmarrn

Kaiserschmarrn means the emperor's mess, and every Austrian has a favorite story to explain it. In one, a court cook ruined a pancake for Emperor Franz Joseph and tore it up to hide the evidence; in another, the emperor simply liked it better than his wife did. Whatever the truth, the dish is a fluffy, souffléed pancake ripped into bite size pieces in the pan, caramelized with butter and sugar, and dusted white. It is served everywhere from Viennese cafés to mountain huts, where hikers eat it as a main course with complete justification.

Its partner is Zwetschkenröster, Italian prune plums stewed with a little sugar and cinnamon until jammy. The pancake is best made in front of your guests and eaten straight from the pan, which turns the race day dessert into a small piece of theater of its own.

Zwetschkenröster (plum compote)

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the sugar, water, cinnamon, cloves and lemon peel in the saucepan over medium heat and stir until the sugar dissolves. Add the plums cut side down.
  2. Cover and cook over low heat for 10 minutes, then uncover and simmer for 5 to 10 minutes more, stirring gently once or twice. Fish out the cinnamon, cloves and lemon peel.

The pancake

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the raisins in the small bowl with the rum and leave to soak. Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
  2. In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the milk. Add the flour, vanilla and lemon zest and whisk until completely smooth.
  3. In the clean bowl, beat the egg whites with the pinch of salt on medium speed until foamy, then add the 3 tablespoons sugar gradually and beat on high for 2 to 3 minutes.
  4. Add a third of the whites to the batter and stir in to lighten it. Then add the rest and fold gently: cut down through the middle with the spatula, sweep along the bottom and lift the batter up over the top, turning the bowl as you go. Stop as soon as no thick white streaks remain.
  5. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in the skillet over medium heat until it foams. Pour in the batter and spread it level. Cook for 2 minutes, then scatter the drained raisins over the top.
  6. Transfer the skillet to the oven and bake for 8 to 10 minutes.
  7. Using oven mitts, put the skillet back on the stove over medium heat. Tear the pancake into rough bite size pieces with the two forks. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of the powdered sugar below, then toss the pieces for 2 to 3 minutes.

To finish

Ingredients

Method

  1. Push the remaining powdered sugar through the sieve over the pancake pieces, generously.

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