Australia · Sweet finish

Lamingtons

Chocolate and coconut coated sponge squares

Squares of soft butter cake dipped in thin chocolate icing and rolled in coconut: Australia's favorite cake stall treat, and gloriously messy to make.

Lamingtons

The lamington takes its name from Lord Lamington, Governor of Queensland from 1896 to 1901, and the favorite story credits his French chef, Armand Galland, with dipping squares of day old cake in chocolate and coconut to stretch a dessert for unexpected guests. Whether or not that is exactly how it happened, a recipe appeared in a Queensland newspaper in 1900, and the cake has been a fixture of bake sales, morning teas and fundraising drives ever since, earning the name lamington drive.

The trick is that the icing is thin, almost a chocolate syrup, so it soaks a little way into the cake before the coconut goes on, giving each square a soft, fudgy shell. A firm, chilled cake makes the dipping easy, so bake it the day before. Then roll up your sleeves: there is no tidy way to make a lamington, and nobody has found one in over a century of trying.

The butter cake

Ingredients

Method

  1. Heat the oven to 350°F (180°C) with a rack in the middle. Rub the pan with a little butter and line the bottom and two long sides with one piece of parchment, letting it hang over the edges like handles.
  2. Beat the butter and sugar with the mixer on medium high for 4 to 5 minutes, stopping once to scrape the bowl with the spatula.
  3. Add the eggs one at a time, beating for 30 seconds after each. Beat in the vanilla.
  4. In the other bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder and salt. Add a third of the flour mixture to the butter mixture and beat on low until just mixed, then half the milk, then flour, milk and the last of the flour, mixing on low only until no dry flour shows.
  5. Scrape the batter into the pan and spread it level. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes.
  6. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then lift out by the paper and cool completely on the rack, about 1 hour. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or overnight.
  7. Trim a thin strip off each edge with the serrated knife, then cut the cake into 24 squares, 6 cuts by 4, roughly 2 inches (5 cm) each.

The chocolate icing and coconut

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the icing sugar, cocoa and butter in the heatproof bowl. Pour in the hot milk and whisk until smooth. Set the bowl over a saucepan with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of barely simmering water, so the bowl does not touch the water, and stir until the butter melts.
  2. Spread half the coconut in the shallow dish. Add the rest when it runs low; this keeps it from clumping with icing.
  3. Drop a cake square into the warm icing. Turn it with two forks so every side is coated, which takes about 3 seconds. Lift it out with a fork and hold it over the bowl for a few seconds so the excess drips off.
  4. Drop the square into the coconut and toss it with your other, dry hand, pushing coconut over the top and sides until every face is covered. Set on the wire rack. Repeat with the rest, keeping the icing over the hot water so it stays runny.
  5. Leave on the rack for at least 1 hour at room temperature, or 30 minutes in the fridge.

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