Ask for a chicken parma in Melbourne and you will receive a crumbed chicken schnitzel draped in tomato sauce and melted cheese, often with a slice of ham tucked in between, usually with chips and salad, and frequently with a fierce opinion about whether the chips belong under it or beside it. Its ancestor is Italian American chicken parmigiana, which reached Australia with postwar Italian restaurants and was on Melbourne menus by 1980. The pubs took it from there.

Victorians call it a parma and Sydneysiders a parmi, and the debate is conducted with the seriousness of a stewards' inquiry. Wherever you stand, it is the definitive pub counter meal, and Melbourne pubs near Albert Park serve a great many of them on Grand Prix weekend. Ours is crisp, generous and finished under the broiler, which is the closest a home kitchen gets to a pub salamander.

The quick napoli sauce

Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) olive oil
• 2 garlic cloves
• 1 can (14.5 oz / 410 g) crushed tomatoes
• 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1/2 teaspoon sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon fine salt

The schnitzels

Ingredients

• 2 large boneless skinless chicken breasts
• 1/2 cup (65 g) all purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon fine salt
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 2 large eggs
• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) milk
• 1 1/2 cups (90 g) panko breadcrumbs
• 1/2 cup (120 ml) vegetable oil

Topping and broiling

Ingredients

• 4 slices cooked leg ham
• 1 1/2 cups (150 g) shredded low moisture mozzarella
• 2 tablespoons finely grated parmesan

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