Australia · Sweet finish

Anzac biscuits

Golden syrup, oat and coconut biscuits

Egg free biscuits of rolled oats, coconut and brown sugar, bound with butter and golden syrup foamed up with baking soda, baked until deep golden with chewy middles and crisp edges.

Anzac biscuits

Few biscuits come with their own legal protocol. The Anzac biscuit does. In Australia the word Anzac is protected by law, and these biscuits are the one commercial use of it that is generally approved, on the condition that they keep to the familiar recipe and round shape and are called biscuits, never cookies. The name honors the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps, and the biscuits are baked by the thousand around Anzac Day on the 25th of April, when both countries remember those who served.

Both sides of the Tasman have a claim to them. Oat biscuits under the Anzac name were printed in a Sydney fundraising cookbook in 1917, and the version most people bake today appeared in a New Zealand cookbook in 1919. The defining detail is what is missing: there is no egg. Butter and golden syrup are melted together and foamed with baking soda to bind the oats, and the usual explanation is that eggs were scarce while so many farmers were away at war.

The result tastes of butterscotch and toasted oats and makes a kitchen smell like somebody has their life in order. Take them out a minute or two early for chewy, leave them a minute or two longer for crisp. Households have been divided on the point for generations, and the only safe position on race weekend is to bake both.

The biscuits

Ingredients

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