Argentina · Trackside classic

Sándwiches de miga

Thin crustless party sandwiches of ham, cheese, egg and tomato

Paper thin crustless white bread, spread with mayonnaise and layered with ham, cheese, egg and tomato, pressed, chilled and cut into neat rectangles for passing round.

Sándwiches de miga

Miga means crumb, the soft inside of the loaf, and that is all the bread these sandwiches contain. Buenos Aires bakeries make a special fine textured white loaf for them, slice it lengthwise into sheets so thin they are almost translucent, and fill them with ham and cheese, egg and tomato, hearts of palm, roasted peppers and two dozen other combinations. The simple ones have two slices; the triples have three, with a second filling in the middle. The great confiterías of the city sell them by the dozen, wrapped in paper, and they have been doing so for generations.

Their ancestry runs through the English tea sandwich and the tramezzini that Turin cafés began selling in the 1920s, carried across the Atlantic with the waves of European immigrants. In Argentina they became something of their own: a fixture of birthdays, christenings, office gatherings and family visits, where a tray of them appears as reliably as the cake. They are the most polite food in the country, eaten in two bites while standing up and talking, which makes them ideal for a room full of people watching a race.

Without a Buenos Aires baker, thin sliced sandwich bread with the crusts trimmed off and a rolling pin give a very respectable result.

Preparing the bread and fillings

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Ham and cheese simples

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Egg, tomato and ham triples

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Pressing and cutting

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