Argentina · Trackside classic

Provoleta

Grilled provolone with oregano and chili

A thick disc of provolone seared in a hot pan until crusted gold outside and molten within, finished with oregano, chili flakes and olive oil and scooped up with bread.

Provoleta

Before the first rib comes off the grill at an Argentine asado, there is provoleta. A thick round of provolone style cheese goes onto the grill in a small iron pan, or straight onto the grate if the cook is brave, and comes off with a crisp, browned crust holding in a center that is soft and stretchy. It is dusted with oregano and chili and passed around with bread, and it buys the asador valuable time. The cheese itself has an Argentine story: Natalio Alba, a Calabrian immigrant in Córdoba, adapted provolone in the 1940s into a smaller, firmer cheese made for the grill, and the name he gave it has since become a generic one.

At home, a cast iron skillet on the stove or the grill does the job perfectly. The only secrets are a thick slice of cheese, a very cold start and a hot pan, so the outside crusts before the inside gives way. It takes ten minutes, it is eaten standing up, and it is gone before anyone has found a plate.

Oregano and chili oil

Ingredients

Method

  1. Stir the olive oil, oregano, chili flakes and garlic if using together in the small bowl and leave it to stand while you prepare the cheese, so the oregano can soften and flavor the oil.

The provoleta

Ingredients

Method

  1. Freeze the cheese on a plate for 20 minutes. Put the flour on the shallow plate and press both flat sides of the cold cheese into it, then tap off the excess. The thin coat of flour helps a crust form and stops the cheese from sticking.
  2. Set the cast iron skillet over medium high heat, on the stove or on a hot grill, for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the teaspoon of oil and tilt the pan to spread it.
  3. Lay the cheese in the center of the pan and leave it completely alone for 3 to 4 minutes. Do not prod or move it, or the crust will tear away.
  4. Slide the thin spatula right under the cheese in one confident movement and flip it over. Cook the second side for 2 to 3 minutes. Turn off the heat and scatter the top with the oregano and a pinch of chili flakes.
  5. Using oven mitts, set the hot pan on the heatproof board in the middle of the table and spoon the oregano and chili oil over the top. Cut into it with a knife at the table and scoop it onto bread while it is still molten.

To serve

Ingredients

Method

  1. While the cheese cooks, warm the sliced bread for 1 to 2 minutes on the edge of the grill or in a hot oven so it is crisp outside and soft inside, ready for scooping.

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