On the 29th of every month, families and neighborhood restaurants across Argentina serve potato gnocchi, and many diners slip a banknote under the plate in the hope that it will multiply before the next one. The custom arrived with Italian immigrants and stuck for practical reasons too: by the end of the month the pay packet is thin, and potatoes and flour are cheap. Few traditions manage to be thrifty and optimistic at the same time.

Gnocchi made by hand are softer and lighter than any bought in a packet, and the method is simple once you know the one rule: use as little flour as the dough will allow. They are served with tuco, a slow simmered tomato sauce in the southern Italian style, which can be made the day before and only improves.

The tuco

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil
• 1 medium onion
• 1 small carrot
• 1 celery stalk
• 1/2 red bell pepper
• 2 garlic cloves
• 12 oz (340 g) beef chuck
• 2 cans (28 oz / 800 g total) crushed tomatoes
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1 teaspoon fine salt
• 1/2 cup (120 ml) water

The ñoquis

Ingredients

• 2 lb (900 g) floury potatoes
• 1 large egg
• 1 teaspoon fine salt
• 1 pinch ground nutmeg
• about 1 1/2 cups (190 g) all purpose flour
• 2 tablespoons coarse salt

To finish

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup (50 g) finely grated parmesan or Argentine reggianito
• 1 handful fresh basil or parsley leaves

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