The name is a promise. Matambre joins matar and hambre, to kill hunger, and the cut it comes from is a broad, thin sheet of muscle that lies just under the hide along the side of the steer, between the skin and the ribs. Argentine cooks have long treated it as two dishes in one: grilled flat over the coals at an asado, or spread with garlic and herbs, rolled around hard boiled eggs and strips of carrot and pepper, tied up like a parcel and poached. That second version, matambre arrollado, is the one that appears sliced on picnic platters, at family gatherings and on any table where cold cuts and good bread are laid out to share.

Its genius is that all the work happens the day before. The roll is simmered gently in broth, cooled, then pressed under a weight overnight so it firms up and slices cleanly, each round showing a mosaic of yellow yolk, orange carrot and red pepper inside a ring of beef. Served cold with chimichurri and crusty bread, it is the rare centerpiece that asks nothing of the cook once the guests arrive.

Outside the Río de la Plata the cut itself is hard to find, but a butterflied flank steak does the job admirably. It is a little thicker and a little leaner, and it rolls just as willingly.

The filling

Ingredients

• 4 large eggs
• 2 medium carrots
• 1 large red bell pepper
• 1 cup (30 g) flat leaf parsley leaves
• 4 garlic cloves
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (ají molido)

Method

1. Put the eggs in the small saucepan, cover them with cold water by 1 inch (2.5 cm) and bring to a boil over high heat. As soon as the water boils, turn the heat down to a gentle simmer and cook for 10 minutes. Lift the eggs into a bowl of cold water with the slotted spoon, leave them for 5 minutes, then peel them and leave them whole.
2. Bring the same pan of water back to a boil, add the carrot quarters and cook for 6 minutes. Lift them out onto a plate and let them cool. They will finish cooking inside the roll.
3. In a small bowl, stir together the parsley, garlic, oregano and chili flakes, if using. This is the green layer that seasons the inside of the roll.

Rolling the matambre

Ingredients

• 1 piece, about 2 lb (900 g) matambre or flank steak
• 2 teaspoons fine salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) red or white wine vinegar

Method

1. If you have matambre or a butterflied steak, skip to the next step. Otherwise lay the flank steak flat on the board with a long side facing you. Hold the knife flat, parallel to the board, and cut into the long side halfway up its thickness. Keep slicing with long, gentle strokes, lifting the top half like the cover of a book, until you are about 1/2 inch (1 cm) from the far edge. Stop there and open the steak out flat.
2. Cover the beef with plastic wrap and tap it with the flat side of the mallet or the rolling pin, working from the center outwards, until it is an even thickness of about 1/2 inch (1 cm) all over. Concentrate on the thicker parts and do not hammer so hard that you tear holes. Remove the plastic. Turn the meat so the grain of the meat runs from left to right; you will roll it away from you, which means each slice later cuts across the grain and is tender.
3. Brush or rub the vinegar all over the top surface of the beef, then sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the salt and half the black pepper. Spread the herb paste evenly over the beef, leaving a bare border of 1 inch (2.5 cm) along the edge farthest from you.
4. Arrange the carrot quarters in lines running from left to right across the beef, spaced about 2 inches (5 cm) apart. Lay the pepper strips in lines between the carrots. Place the four whole eggs end to end in a single line along the edge closest to you.
5. Starting from the edge with the eggs, lift the beef over the eggs and tuck it under them firmly. Keep rolling away from you, pressing down and pulling back gently after each turn to keep the roll tight, until you reach the bare far edge. Turn the roll so the seam sits underneath.
6. Slide a piece of twine under the roll near one end, bring the ends up over the top and tie a firm double knot. Repeat every 1 1/2 inches (4 cm) along the roll. Then run one long piece of twine lengthwise, looping it around each crosswise string, and tie it at the ends so the filling cannot slip out. Trim the loose ends with scissors. Rub the outside of the roll with the remaining salt and pepper.

Poaching and pressing

Ingredients

• about 12 cups (2.9 liters) water or light beef broth
• 1 onion
• 1 carrot
• 1 celery stalk
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tablespoon fine salt
• 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

Method

1. Put the water or broth, onion, carrot, celery, bay leaves, salt and peppercorns in the large pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat down so the liquid barely bubbles.
2. Lower the roll into the pot with the seam side down. It must be covered by liquid; add hot water if needed. Put the lid on, leaving a small gap, and cook at a bare simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Check every 20 minutes that the liquid is not boiling hard, which would toughen the meat and burst the roll, and turn the roll over halfway through.
3. Turn off the heat and leave the roll in the broth for 30 minutes so it stays juicy. Lift it out carefully with two large spoons or tongs and set it on the rimmed baking sheet.
4. Cover the roll with plastic wrap. Set the second baking sheet or board on top and put the weights on it, spreading them evenly along the length of the roll. Once it is cool, after about 1 hour, move the whole stack into the fridge and leave it for at least 8 hours or overnight. Strain the broth and keep it for soup if you like.

Quick chimichurri and serving

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup (15 g) flat leaf parsley leaves
• 2 garlic cloves
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
• 3 tablespoons (45 ml) red wine vinegar
• 1/2 cup (120 ml) extra virgin olive oil or sunflower oil
• 1/2 teaspoon fine salt

Method

1. Put the parsley, garlic, oregano, chili flakes and salt in the small bowl. Add the vinegar and stir, then pour in the oil and stir again. Leave it for at least 30 minutes so the flavors can mingle.
2. Unwrap the cold roll, snip every piece of twine with the scissors and pull the strings away. With the long knife, cut the roll into slices about 1/2 inch (1 cm) thick, using long, gentle sawing strokes and wiping the blade between cuts so the slices stay clean.
3. Lay the slices overlapping on the platter and spoon a little chimichurri over them. Serve the rest of the sauce in a bowl alongside.

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