Argentina · Signature dish

Asado de tira con chimichurri

Grilled beef short ribs with herb sauce

Strips of beef rib salted with nothing but coarse salt, grilled slowly until the fat crackles, then splashed with sharp, garlicky chimichurri.

Asado de tira con chimichurri

In Argentina the asado is less a recipe than a weekly institution. Someone, traditionally called the asador, tends the fire for most of the afternoon while everyone else stands near the grill offering advice nobody requested. The cut that appears at almost every one is tira de asado: beef ribs sawn across the bones into long strips, so each piece carries a row of little bone ovals with meat on both sides. Salt goes on, smoke does the rest, and chimichurri, a sharp green sauce of parsley, oregano, garlic and vinegar, waits in a jar beside the bread.

Buenos Aires hosted all twenty of Argentina's Grands Prix, at the autodrome named for the brothers Oscar and Juan Gálvez, and a race weekend in that city without an asado would be a strange one. The beauty of tira is that it forgives a beginner: the fat bastes the meat as it cooks, and a few extra minutes only make it crisper. On a gas grill or even under an oven broiler it is still very good, which is a relief for anyone without a backyard and a free afternoon.

The chimichurri

Ingredients

Method

  1. Stir the coarse salt into the hot water in the jar until it dissolves. Leave it to cool for 5 minutes while you chop.
  2. Chop the parsley leaves finely with the knife, gathering them into a pile and rocking the blade through them until the pieces are about the size of a grain of rice. Peel the garlic and chop it as finely as you can.
  3. Add the oregano, ají molido and paprika to the warm salty water and stir. The water softens the dried herbs and gives the sauce its body.
  4. Add the parsley, garlic and vinegar, stir, then pour in the oil. Stir again, close the jar and leave it at room temperature for at least 1 hour, or in the fridge overnight.

The ribs

Ingredients

Method

  1. For charcoal, light a full chimney of charcoal and wait about 20 minutes until the coals are covered in gray ash, then spread them in an even layer. For gas, heat all burners on high with the lid closed for 10 minutes, then turn them to medium. Check the heat with your hand as described in Before you start.
  2. Pat the ribs dry with paper towels. Sprinkle the coarse salt evenly over both sides. Do not add oil or pepper; Argentine asadores salt and let the fire do the rest.
  3. Lay the strips on the grate with the bone edge facing down toward the heat if they are thick enough to stand, or flat with the bone side down. Close the lid of a gas grill; leave a charcoal grill open. Cook for 12 to 15 minutes without moving them. If fat flares into flames, move that piece to a cooler spot for a minute.
  4. Turn the strips over with the tongs and cook the meat side for 8 to 12 minutes more.
  5. Move the ribs to the board and rest them for 5 minutes. Cut between the bones into bite size pieces, or leave the strips whole for people to cut at the table. Taste a piece and sprinkle with a little more salt if needed.

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