Argentina · Sweet finish

Alfajores de maicena

Cornstarch cookies filled with dulce de leche

Two tender cornstarch cookies that melt on the tongue, sandwiched with thick dulce de leche and rolled in coconut at the edges.

Alfajores de maicena

Argentina is said to eat millions of alfajores a day, and it is not hard to see why. The alfajor arrived from Spain, where it was an almond and honey sweet of Moorish origin, and in Argentina it became something else entirely: two soft cookies glued together with dulce de leche, the slow cooked milk caramel that is practically a national condiment. Kiosks sell chocolate coated ones by the hundred; the version made at home is the alfajor de maicena, built on cookies so rich in cornstarch that they crumble at a glance.

They are made for afternoon merienda with mate, for birthday tables and for school bake sales, and they keep well enough to be made a day ahead of a race. The only real skill is patience: the dough must chill, and the cookies must cool completely before they meet the filling.

The cookies

Ingredients

Method

  1. Beat the butter and powdered sugar in the large bowl with the mixer on medium, or with the wooden spoon, for 2 to 3 minutes.
  2. Beat in the egg yolks one at a time, then the vanilla and lemon zest.
  3. Sift the cornstarch, flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt into the bowl. Mix gently with the spoon, then with your hand, pressing the crumbs together just until they form a dough. Do not knead.
  4. Flatten the dough into a disc, wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.
  5. Heat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Roll the dough between two sheets of parchment to 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick. Cut rounds with the cutter and lift them onto the lined sheets with a butter knife, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. Gather and reroll the scraps.
  6. Bake one sheet at a time on the middle rack for 10 to 12 minutes.
  7. Leave them on the sheet for 5 minutes, then move them very carefully to the rack to cool completely.

Filling and finishing

Ingredients

Method

  1. Turn half the cookies flat side up. Match each with a cookie of the same size.
  2. Spread about 1 heaped teaspoon of dulce de leche on each upturned cookie, leaving a thin border. Set the partner cookie on top and press very gently, holding it at the edges, until the filling reaches the rim.
  3. Put the coconut on the plate. Hold each alfajor like a wheel and roll its edge through the coconut so it sticks to the dulce de leche. Dust the tops with powdered sugar if you like.

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