Algeria · Trackside classic

Karantita

Baked chickpea flour custard in bread

A trembling, golden chickpea custard, cut hot from the tray and stuffed into a baguette with harissa and cumin: Oran's favorite street snack.

Karantita

Karantita is what Oran eats on the move. Vendors bake it in huge round trays, cut it into squares while it still wobbles, and pack it into half a baguette with a smear of harissa and a shake of cumin, and in Algiers the queue looks much the same. The story most often told is that it was born in Oran during the long Spanish occupation, when chickpeas were the one thing a besieged town had plenty of, and the name is usually traced to the Spanish word for hot. Whatever the truth, it has outlived its origins as poverty food by becoming everyone's food.

It is made from almost nothing: chickpea flour, water, oil, an egg or two and cumin. In the oven the batter settles into two layers, a soft custard below and a firm golden skin on top. It is cheap, filling, vegetarian and halal as it stands, and it holds in bread well enough to be eaten standing up, which is the whole point of trackside food.

The karantita

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the chickpea flour, salt, cumin and pepper in the large bowl. Pour in about 1 cup (240 ml) of the water and whisk to a smooth, thick paste with no lumps. Whisk in the rest of the water a little at a time, then 1/3 cup (80 ml) of the oil and 1 of the eggs.
  2. Cover the bowl and leave it on the counter for 30 minutes. While it rests, put a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 375°F (190°C).
  3. Pour the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil into the baking pan, tilt it to coat the bottom and sides, and put the pan in the hot oven for 5 minutes.
  4. Whisk the batter again well, scraping up anything that has settled. Take the pan out, set it on the stovetop, and carefully pour in the batter. Return it to the oven and bake for 25 minutes.
  5. Beat the second egg with a fork in the small bowl. Slide out the rack, brush the egg gently all over the surface with the pastry brush, and bake for 25 to 30 minutes more.
  6. Let it stand for 5 minutes, then cut into 8 squares with the knife and lift them out with the spatula.

To serve in bread

Ingredients

Method

  1. Split each piece of baguette along one side without cutting all the way through. Spread the inside with about 1/2 teaspoon of harissa, slide in a hot square of karantita, sprinkle with a pinch of cumin and press the bread closed.

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