Algeria · Sweet finish

Kalb el louz

Semolina cake soaked in orange blossom syrup

Golden squares of buttery semolina, each crowned with an almond and soaked through with cold orange blossom syrup: the sweet that marks Ramadan nights in Algeria.

Kalb el louz

Kalb el louz means heart of almonds, and it is the sweet Algerian families set out after the evening meal through Ramadan, with mint tea and conversation that runs late. Depending on the region it may also be called chamia or h'rissa. It is made from very little: coarse semolina, sugar, butter and orange blossom water, rested overnight, baked until deep gold, then drenched in cold syrup until every grain is heavy with it. One almond sits on each piece, and some families hide a seam of ground almonds inside as well.

Its secret is patience rather than skill. The semolina rests for a night so it can drink its liquid, and the finished cake rests again so the syrup can travel all the way to the bottom. The reward is a dense, moist, fragrant square that is somehow both crumbly and soft, and a recipe that does most of its work while you sleep, which is the best kind of preparation there is.

The syrup

Ingredients

Method

  1. Put the sugar and water in the saucepan over medium heat and stir until the sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil, add the lemon juice, and boil gently for 10 minutes without stirring.
  2. Turn off the heat, stir in the honey if using, and leave to cool completely. Once cold, stir in the orange blossom water and refrigerate until needed.

The cake

Ingredients

Method

  1. In the wide bowl, mix the semolina and sugar. Pour over the 7 tablespoons of melted butter and rub the mixture between your palms for 3 to 4 minutes until every grain is coated.
  2. Stir the orange blossom water and water together. Sprinkle half over the semolina and rub it in gently for 5 minutes, lifting and letting the grains fall through your fingers. Do not knead or press.
  3. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a towel and leave it at room temperature for 10 to 12 hours. Keep the rest of the orange blossom liquid covered alongside.
  4. Put a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat it to 400°F (200°C). Break up the rested semolina with your fingers, then sprinkle in the remaining orange blossom liquid while rubbing. If it still feels dry, add water a teaspoon at a time.
  5. Brush the pan with the oil. Tip in the semolina and spread it evenly, then press it down firmly with the offset spatula or the back of a spoon into a flat, level layer.
  6. With the sharp knife, cut right down to the bottom of the pan into 24 squares or diamonds, 4 rows by 6. Press an almond into the center of each piece and brush the surface with the remaining tablespoon of melted butter.
  7. Bake on the lower rack for 30 minutes, then move the pan to the middle rack and bake for 20 to 30 minutes more.
  8. As soon as the cake comes out, ladle about a third of the cold syrup evenly over the hot cake, running it along the cut lines. Wait 5 minutes for it to soak in, then pour the second third, wait again, and pour the rest.
  9. Leave the cake uncovered at room temperature for at least 4 hours, or up to 8, before serving. Recut along the lines to lift out each piece.

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