Algeria · Trackside classic

Dobara

Biskra spiced chickpea and fava bean bowl with garlic and harissa

Soft chickpeas and fava beans in their hot cooking broth, stirred through with a fiery garlic and harissa sauce and piled with fresh tomato, cilantro, lemon and olive oil: the winter street bowl of Biskra.

Dobara

Dobara comes from Biskra, the date palm city on the edge of the Sahara in eastern Algeria, and it is the bowl that town hands to visitors, locals and anyone who looks cold. Chickpeas, dried fava beans or both are simmered until soft, ladled into bowls with some of their cooking liquid, and then everything interesting happens on top: a punchy sauce of garlic, paprika, harissa and olive oil, fresh grated tomato, chopped cilantro, a squeeze of lemon and a few pickled peppers. It is sold at street stalls and small eateries and made in homes all over the east, from Batna to Constantine, mostly in the colder months.

It is vegan without making any fuss about it, built entirely from the pantry, and it does a better job of warming you up than most things that come with a cover charge. Bread is not a side dish here but a utensil. Make the beans ahead and the sauce in ten minutes, and you have something to eat standing at the counter with a spoon in one hand and a piece of bread in the other, which is how it should be eaten.

The beans

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The garlic and harissa sauce

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The toppings and assembly

Ingredients

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