In Algeria, the evening meal during Ramadan very often begins with a bowl of chorba frik, eaten after a date and a glass of water, and many families make it every night of the month without anyone suggesting a change. The frik is the point: wheat harvested while still green, roasted, rubbed from its husk and cracked, which gives the soup a gentle smokiness and a body somewhere between broth and porridge. Lamb, tomato, chickpeas and a fistful of cilantro do the rest.

It is a forgiving soup, happy to simmer while you get on with other things, and it tastes better the next day, which is a rare virtue in a cook's companion. Serve it with lemon wedges and bread, and the meal has started well whatever the grid does next.

The soup

Ingredients

• 1 lb (450 g) boneless lamb shoulder
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil
• 1 large yellow onion
• 1 bunch cilantro
• 2 teaspoons sweet paprika
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 1/2 teaspoons fine salt
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 2 large ripe tomatoes
• 8 cups (2 liters) water
• 1 can (15 oz / 425 g) chickpeas
• 1/2 cup (90 g) cracked frik (freekeh)
• 1 teaspoon dried mint
• 1 lemon

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