Algeria · Regional favorite

Chakhchoukha

Torn semolina flatbread soaked in spiced lamb and chickpea stew

Paper thin semolina flatbreads, cooked on a dry griddle and torn into small pieces, then steamed and soaked in a peppery red stew of lamb and chickpeas: the great festive dish of eastern Algeria.

Chakhchoukha

Chakhchoukha belongs to the Chaoui people of the Aurès mountains in eastern Algeria, and it has travelled down into the cities around them: Batna, Biskra, Constantine and M'Sila all claim a version and defend it. The name comes from a Chaoui word for tearing into little pieces, which is exactly what happens to the bread. A semolina dough is rolled almost thin enough to read through, cooked briefly on a dry griddle, then torn by hand into small squares, steamed, and drowned in marqa, a red stew of lamb, chickpeas, tomato and pepper.

What began as warming food for cold mountain evenings is now the dish cooked for family celebrations, and it has the patience of a celebration built in. Tearing a stack of flatbread into scraps is not quick, but it is the kind of job that improves with company and conversation, and the result, soft and silky pieces of bread that have drunk up a spiced broth, is worth the time. Biskra cooks like it hotter; Constantine keeps it deep red. This version sits politely between the two.

The lamb and chickpea stew

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The rougag flatbreads

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Steaming and assembly

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